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on the truck ride to the mountain
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taking a little break
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chillin at a descanso with jakob
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me climbing a tree
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evan sheltering from the hail
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the rain forest
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the pouring rain!!
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a little before sunrise
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the sun rising above the clouds
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the final peak
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a shot from the top of the main peak
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smoke coming from fuego!
Where do I begin…
I guess at the beginning. So, myself along with 5 friends from Camino Seguro (Tristan, Jakob, Evan, Lizzy, and Lily) all decided to hike Volcan Acatenango together this weekend. We saw some trip packages for $80 that included transport, food, tent, and a guide. Well my friends basically said screw that, we can buy food for $10, transport for under $10, and we can do it without a guide. Not that any of them have ever hiked it before, but their Lonely Planet book has a couple paragraphs on how to. Evan, Lily, and Lizzy brought a tent with them while the 3 of us just brought a tarp to sleep on. We weren’t anticipating that the rainy season would have started so soon and were told it only rains for like an hour per day during the rainy season, so figured we’d be fine. You’ll see how that turns out.
We left Antigua around 9am yesterday and took a camioneta for Q3 each to San Miguel Duenas, which is about 13km from Acatenango’s trailhead in La Soledad. From there we talked to some locals and we were told we could walk to this bridge and hitch a ride with a pickup driver for Q10 ($1.25) each. So we walked there, tried for like a half hour to hitch a ride with no luck. Then I started walking around asking for a number for a taxi and nobody had any! Then I saw a truck driver and asked if he’d give my friends and I a ride there and he agreed to for Q10 each. So we got in, did our best not to squish the vegetables in the bed of his truck, and we were on our way up our ascent of Volcan Acatenango at 11am.
It was a really nice mountain kept up very well by whoever is in charge of doing so. There was not really much trash along the hike and there were 5 “Descancos” which are little huts to rest under throughout the first half of the hike. Most of the first half of the hike was like a rain forest – lots of cool trees and it was very damp. 3 hours later or so of hiking passed and there was a cabin there for resting. We stopped there for like an hour I guess (?) I’m not sure though because apparently I fell asleep for 10 minutes or so. After that it got really tough.
We saw a couple seemingly experienced guys coming down who said that we were about 2-3 hours away from False Peak where the fog was really thick and we had to stay close together and wouldn’t even be able to find the Main Peak. So we kept going and soon after we were in the clouds and man was it hard to see. Tristan estimates we could probably only see like 30 ft around us, I actually don’t remember that well I was mostly just looking down at one foot in front of the other. It started to get colder and windier, then it started HAILING out! We hiked through about 15-20 minutes of slightly painful hail, until we hit some pretty hard rain. We were still in the clouds so couldn’t see much. We had no clue how far the summit was.
Eventually we got out of the forest’s tree line and it was really gloomy looking dead trees and a lot of fog/cloud. Still couldn’t see the summit and we were getting really tired, wet, and it was probably around 4-5pm so we were getting nervous about darkness. The idea of returning back down to the cabin was mentioned once or twice, but we were determined to attempt to find this peak before dark. It was very cold, very windy, and foggy, but at one point I was pretty certain I could see the top and I screamed that I think we found it and I think started sprinting up despite how difficult it was in that altitude. WE MADE IT! Volcan Acatenango False Peak, 3,880 meters, around 5 or 5:30pm. We all started celebrating like crazy.
Freezing, in the fog, rain and wind, we ran around trying to set up the tent and get our packs under the tarp. Like I said, we were originally planning on sleeping on a tarp haha, but we were quickly told to just pile into the tent that Lily, Lizzy, and Evan brought. It was a 2 person tent that ended up having 6 people in it all night. It took us about 20 minutes to set up the tent and then we all piled in. Oh my, how crazy. It must have been one of the most uncomfortable times I’ve ever been. The 6 of us could not possibly all fit, so at all times at least one but mostly multiple people were laying on top of eachother. Since we were all so squished after such a long hike, so many of us got muscle cramps in our legs which we’d scream in agony about, but not be able to do anything because there was no room to stretch our leg out! It was actually quite hilarious and we all started laughing every time it happened which was a few times per hour. I can’t say enough about what an awesome group of people I went with. Despite how cramped, cold, wet, and smelly (I cannot emphasize that word smelly enough) that tent was, not a single serious complaint was made. We laughed the entire time and despite how uncomfortable it was, it was an experience we all said were so happy had happened and was very fun.
I ended up bringing nothing more than a good amount of warm clothes and a beach towel for sleeping!! Haha! Imagine if I had to sleep outside with that! Wow… Everybody else at least had sleeping bags. So I was incredibly cold inside that tent. Somehow, I found a position in the corner of the tent that I was getting very wet because I was leaning against the side, with only Evan’s head on my legs, yet I managed to fall asleep for an hour or 2. I woke up and nobody else had slept and somebody questioned, “How is it that Billy – the coldest and wettest of us all and only one not to bring a sleeping bag – is the only one who has been able to sleep?!” How did they know I was the coldest of them all? I was violently shivering, while awake and in my sleep. I started to get worried at one point that I might get pneumonia, but realized there wasn’t much I could do about it and that I’d get over it eventually haha. Its crazy what good spirits we all had about the situation haha. Luckily, I’m fine now. I ended up falling asleep and waking up a few more times, then we all fell asleep pretty soundly around 2am I think (I know I did).
I wake up and see that its 4:51am and know that the sun is about to rise soon. Tristan, Jakob, and I get up and head outside where it was freezing to catch the sunrise. There were a ton of clouds that we were above, so it wasn’t the beautiful thing we’d ever seen, but it was still a nice view of the sun breaking through the clouds behind the top of Volcan Agua above the clouds as well. We could now see the area around us and see the Main Peak of the Volcano. We were all really tired, cold, lazy, and weren’t sure if we were going to go to the top or not. Some people said they didn’t want to, I said I would if others would, but wouldn’t mind heading down too, but Jakob said that he really wanted to – he didn’t want to have gone through this to have “almost” made it to the top of Acatenango. Suddenly, I said, “That’s right, lets go!” And the 2 of us were off. A guide book said it was about an hour hike from where we were, a couple chapines tenting up there as well said about an hour and a half, and Jakob and I made it there in 36 minutes. Man, that was a TOUGH 36 minute hike. Although only about 100 meters or so, we were trudging though just as it was described about knee-deep of volcanic ash in a really high altitude. But we got there, 3,976 meters high, spent maybe a half hour up there, walked around the crater, caught a couple glimpses of Volcan Fuego spewing smoke, and made it back to our campsite in a total time of about an hour and a half. Towards the end, we thanked eachother for going because neither of us would have gone if not for the other.
Then we all headed down the Volcano and made it down in about 2.5 hours opposed to the 6-7 hour ascent. Talked to some locals and found a bus to bring us back into Antigua just in time for me to catch the 4th quarter and the OTs of the Celtics’ loss. Then I took a long, well-deserved nap!
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